The art of Kundan Vs Polki Jewelry

Jewelry is the heart and soul of purity, honesty, and diligence. In the pursuit of selling jewelry, the terms ‘Kundan’ and ‘Polki’ are often misused and sometimes interchanged in the marketplace, nevertheless, there are fundamental differences between the two terms.

Kundan is a process of setting glass or imitation stones using a 24k gold foil between the frame and stone to create a perfect setting. On the other hand, Polki is an uncut and raw diamond that originated from the Bikaner region of Rajasthan in the Mughal Era. Since both come from a royal background and hence it causes speculations and misinformation in the market.

Kundan is a craft process by itself whereas Polki is merely an uncut and unpolished diamond. Kundan jewelry mostly contains a glasswork set with gold foil and a meenakari finishing where ‘meena’ stands for enamel and ‘kari’ stands for artwork. In contrast, Polki jewels contain raw diamonds and therefore are more lustrous than Kundan. Furthermore, polki jewelry has a much higher price point than imitation Kundan jewelry, which is primarily made from glass or other imitation stones.

Polki jewelry sustains its value and charm in the jewelry market because of uncut diamonds and the rich Indian culture to back it up. Polki has not only proven to become a status symbol but has also proved its versatility with modern clothing. Therefore, Polki’s rich historical roots and its close affiliation to the culture of Rajasthan make it a piece of very precious jewelry set to have in your collection. Jewelry retailers often sell Kundan as Polki and charge higher prices than usual.

 

What is Jadau?

There are various techniques for setting polki in Jewellery, at Rimjhim we work with ‘Jadau’. Jadau, the Hindi word for embedding, refers to jewellery where polki diamonds are placed on a silver or gold foil, lending them a brilliant shine when they reflect light.

Considered as one of the oldest jewelry making techniques, there is an interesting history behind the Jadau process. It is said to have been introduced by the Mughals but the technique was perfected and made local by the artisans of Rajasthan and Gujrat.

Without the role of technology, it is completely hand-made and thus takes more time to finish. The special care and effort taken to create such intricate designs from scratch by hand make it extremely valuable. The skill and dedication behind this craft are unparalleled and the technique has been perfected through generations of artisans.

The technique of Jadau

It is essentially a technique of jewellery-making wherein uncut diamonds (Polki), pearls, and precious gemstones are embedded into gold. Jadau technique is intricate and involves a series of tedious tasks.

Gold is heated and beaten to make it malleable. It is then turned into a frame on which precious stones are studded without the use of any external adhesive. The framework (Ghaat) is usually made in 22k Gold and the gemstones are set using 24K gold foil strips. One of the most striking features of jadau jewellery is the meenakari work (an enameling technique) done on the rear of the ornament.

Cultural significance for Indian Brides

Polki jewellery has an old world charm and goes very well with other bright stones. This is a good investment as Polki jewellery can be passed down the generations as an heirloom.

Polki has not only proven to become a status symbol but has also proved its versatility with modern clothing. Therefore, Polki’s rich historical roots and its close affiliation to the culture of Rajasthan make it a very precious jewelry set to have in your collection.

The Polki collection, handcrafted by our adroit karigars, has gracefully curated jewels for every Millennial bride’s wedding trousseau.

A set consisting of chokers, long haars, statement earrings are in trend with the young brides of today. In order to keep up with the wedding trends of today, wedding jewellery has been designed light in weight but has not compromised with the traditional voluminous look. Usually made in 22K-24K gold with a solid backing, the lighter version of jewellery is set in 18K gold instead and often with an open backside. Thus made more practical, Kundan jewellery is the goto choice of the Tinseltown.

How to spot the fake out?

Be it any form of precious item,there are swindlers looking to make easy money by hoodwinking a vulnerable customer.

Knowing your jewels is important if you do not want to be taken for a ride and sold cheap imitations. A basic know-how of craftsmanship and type of jewels used is necessary to spot fake jewellery.

• Always look for gold certifications from the jeweller to confirm the gold purity. 
• You can also look for authenticity stamps on the jewellery pieces. 
• Always buy from a trusted source – do your homework – ask around for reviews, everything is available online 
• Ask for certification for the Polki diamonds.
• Double-check with the jeweller for the use  of treated gemstones (an extremely common market practice)

One should also be aware of the various treatments that are used to enhance the look of uncut diamonds and other precious and semi-precious stones in jadau jewellery.

Jadau Maintenance

Jadau jewellery is very delicate and one needs to make sure to handle them with the care they deserve.

• Always keep your jewellery wrapped in a padded cloth or an air-tight jewellery box to avoid moisture exposure and other elements.
• Keep away from water, even the slightest of moisture can cause harm to your precious jewels. Always wipe your jewellery with a linen cloth/suede or just cotton.
• Avoid chemicals to clean your jewellery unless very essential. A simple eraser can help get out the stains from your jewels. You can also use baby talc dusted on to maintain the shine.
• You can use a mild soap mixed with warm water to form a solution and use the softest toothbrush you can find to clean your set. Always remember that while getting ready,  wear your jewellery at the end.
• This is to make sure that it doesn’t come in contact with cosmetic products and aerosols like perfume, hairsprays etc. Aerosols can cause corrosion of precious stones.
• They should also be the first thing you remove while changing out of your ensemble. 

Rimjhim strives to maintain transparency with its customers. Taking inspiration from Indian heritage, Rimjhim puts an emphasis on ethical practices and empowering customers to make an informed choice. To facilitate a change in these unethical practices, Rimjhim is committed to helping you make the right choice.

Feel free to get in touch with us for a free jewelry consultation.